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3D printed screw nuts - horizontal or vertical printing position is better?
3D printed screw nuts – horizontal or vertical printing position is better?

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In this video I am testing optimal position for screw nuts, to find out, which one is stronger – horizontal or vertical position. In my previous video I was testing optimal 3D printing position for bolts and there was significant difference, horizontal printing was stronger, but let’s find out will it be the case with the nuts too. In this video I am testing torque with M10 nuts and pulling test with M6.

Contents:
0:00 in this video
0:15 introduction
1:32 Analyzing in Slicer
2:51 3D printing
4:01 Torque test
7:29 Pulling test
8:52 Results
9:45 Conclusions

Materials and methods:
Prusa MK3 3D printer, 0.4mm nozzle, 0.15mm layer height, 220-225°C temperature (too much for PLA, but I wanted strongest layer adhesion). Printed with 6 perimeters and 100% infill. Software I used: PrusaSlicer and Fusion360. 150 kg hanging scale.

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3d printing,strength test,torque test,3d printed threads

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Robert Aka

Hello everyone, I'm Alva Feeney. As someone who likes to learn the best tools to help you with housework, gardening tools, electric tools, motorcycle polishing tools ... In this website I will share with you the tools that I feel the best

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42 Comments

  1. Hello again! Are you sure that is the correct test to calculate max Tightening torque of nut?? Because I think while you return the +, torque must be saved in nut.

  2. Saw your prior video. WIth bolts. Thanks for following up with this one! Great stuff. Thank you

  3. Re: BOLT ORIENTATION/SUPPORTS: Trick to avoid supports!…
    – Cut off bottom portion! That is, when lying horizontal.
    – Cut ~1/4 up the threads.
    – Yes, bolt looks funny, but still works:)
    – FYI, can even cut of top, too! This saves on material usage.
    – BTW, I have not test any effect on strength. Only concern: less area to contacting mating with internal threads. Hm?…
    – P.S. Bolt only needs to be "strong enough":) With a factor of safety, of course.

  4. I’m not sure who started it, Prusa does it now, I think, but a small ramping cutout at the top inside of the nut really helps with quality. It gets rid of the overhang entirely and the nut still works.

  5. I really like your channel. Very happy I discovered it. Great work and wonderful to see you explore your curiosity.

  6. Here I was, watching your videos, thinking I subscribed 3 weeks ago, and as it turns out, they're just being recommended but I wasn't subbed!
    Hey man, keep up the great work!
    In this particular video, I thought the vertical printed nut would have been stronger because the screw is parallel to the printing lines.
    Greetings from México!

  7. Very interesting subject and nicely put together. I hope your baby girl didn't mind lending you her swing for a few days.

  8. Great and very informative. You need to print rounded windowsill for you circular window 0:39. For some reason it bothers me…

  9. instead of using support for the top bridge on >M10 vertically printed nuts, could you pause the print, thread in a bolt, and then finish printing using the bolt as the support?

  10. Just wondering – Why don't you use the ratchet strap to do the pulling force test? Saves you from getting bumped on the head. Project Farm does some similar stuff.

  11. The only way that you would have any possibility of a stronger printed nut and bolt would by using the annealing process (oven heating and slow cooling, to align the molecules within the printed nut and bolt)..

    Unfortunately the annealing process seems to have a flaw, in that it warps the print..

  12. Again, proof that you need to print objects with the orientation that gives the largest area per slice, if you want strength.

    This completes both the nut and bolt.

    Only place you could further this now would be the object between the nut and bolt. Though again, I think you would find having the attachment printed flat, with largest layer area and 100% infill would be strongest.

    But then plastic is plastic.. if you really wanted durability, you would look for metal.

  13. I know you're not going to like me, but the bunji cord is a bit weak. For safety, I would put a big paracord that can hold your weight. I'm only saying that because I don't want you to hurt yourself. You are also showing young people how to do it right. It's got to be right and safe too. 👍😉

  14. I wonder if you could get the good thread by printing bolts vertically, but have a hole in the center of the bolt and insert some carbon fiber tube and bond it to the inside of the print

  15. You need to test for sizes that makes sense for 3D-printing plastics, not metal. A 2mm pitch thread, is a minimum for a really solid interconnection, which leaves you with M14, or bigger. If used with care, there are no need for any metal bolts or nuts. I tend to scale the bolt in the X and Y plane, and print the "nuts" in any direction. Also, by incorporating the "bolt" thread correctly into parts, I can dictate the rotation of the interconnect, as in connect cubes. If you print a bolt and a nut at 16mm 2mm picth, and scale down the width of the bolt to fit without need to machine it to fit, those results would be far more interesting, and far stronger than these. Using PETG, I need to decrase the x and y with 3%. I just use a regular flat headed screw driver, and a slot in the end of the bolt, for fastening. Works really great. The main issue is that I cannot get longer bolts to work, as thermal expansion is affecting the prints of the bolts, skewing the the threads of the upper part of the bolt, as the print do not compensate for thermal expansion of the cooling of the bolt, as it prints. The printer applies the layers as if there is no such thing as thermal expansion, in the z axis. Just design for short bolts, like up to 12mm for each nut. I tried M22 and 3mm thread, and it is just as bad, if not worse, in this regard. Also for interconnecting parts, I use headless bolts, and threads on each side of the interconnect, as I can adjust the threading for parts to align perfectly.

  16. Great update video 👍
    Great work you are doing, love it 👍😀
    Thanks for sharing 👍😀

  17. Also useful conclusion (besides that horizontally printed plastic nuts are good enough for several applications if they will not be commonly unscrewed).
    Is that if you are going to have horizontal threads in your 3D print with a good number of perimeters then you can avoid need for metallic nuts in the 3D print. (That is again, if the screws will not be commonly removed)

  18. Great video, this is such an important test, thank you for sharing, great videos, keep them coming. Great result on the Horizontal nut.quite impressive results on the torque test and the pull test.

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