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Another Glorious LS Head Bolt Torque Rant!!! | Collection of the Most Modern Power Tools

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Another Glorious LS Head Bolt Torque Rant!!!

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Hello everyone, I'm Alva Feeney. As someone who likes to learn the best tools to help you with housework, gardening tools, electric tools, motorcycle polishing tools ... In this website I will share with you the tools that I feel the best

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  1. Thanks for the video. I ordered head bolts from ICT Billet, they were advertised as Mahle but they sent me Felpro head bolts

  2. I kind of think that the bolts when they were unused keep stretching no matter how tight you get until you've weakened them too far after you set them at 65 you're probably good cuz if you stretch them farther they're probably still have a clamping force of 65 foot-pounds but once you run the metal through a heat cycle you're probably making the head bolts stronger and they probably allow for let's stretch after that I know when you make a knife the last step is usually a couple hours at 230 degrees this is usually after a quench when the metal is brittle but I imagine it works the same way when the metal is soft still a good experiment and it makes you think

  3. I’m glad you made this video I used jegs head bolts I didn’t use there torque spec😱Witch is 75 pound👍🏽 I used corvette form gm torque sequence made first pass 22foot pounds Second pass @90 degrees third pass 17 bolts @went 30degrees 3 bolts for some reason went 60degrees🤔pulling on tour wrench with a degree gauge attachedp🧐Hope it didn’t pinch the head gaskets I hope it’ll run like this I’m not sure I feel like taking it all apart I don’t know what to do but your video makes me think to leave it alone and run it and see what happens I hope there is no catastrophic damage

  4. I feel your pain!
    I'm currently re-installing my cylinder head on my 2007 Chevy Tahoe.
    I have a brand new Durofix Digital Torque/Angle Adapter.
    I did my first pass successfully, and then when I started my second pass at 90⁰, I only got the first bolt done, then the adapter started crapping out on me…
    I'd get half way through my pull, and I noticed that the tool–and I use that term loosely, was shutting down…
    Luckily I wrote down an "approximate" measurement of the degree that I had pulled to before noticing the tool shut-down.
    It took multiple restarts and reprogramming of my 90⁰ setting before I had to stop.
    I probably have 2-3 head bolts (Fel-Pro) that may be over torqued by 40-50 degrees.
    I contacted the manufacturer of the tool (Durofix), about the issue to see what they had to say about the TOOL not holding my settings.
    The tool is brand new, with brand new batteries.
    It's just letting me down in the middle of my job.
    My LS 5.3L calls for 22 ft. lbs. 1st pass, 90⁰ 2nd pass, and 70⁰ 3rd pass.
    Waiting for Durofix Tech Support to respond before I proceed…

  5. I wonder if when you torque the center first, if the rest of the head on the ends slightly lift up, making it further from the gasket and taking more threads to seal it? I wouldn’t think so but maybe it’s possible?

  6. Does the SI specifies the lubrication of the threads? This practice overshoots the torque value by a lot

  7. One way to get that sense of security use the torque wrench for the first torque setting and the put it up and use a breaker bar for the 90/90 and say fuck it

  8. I always built my engines exactly to manufacturer's specifications. Used new bolts, torqued them exactly as the book said. However, after stripping 2 of the bolt holes in the block while tightening the head bolts on the first 90° pass I talked to the owner of the machine shop and he said to reuse the factory bolts and torque them to 55 foot pounds on the first pass 65 foot pounds on the second pass and 75 foot pounds on the third pass and I won't have any problems. He said he's been doing it that way for 15 years without any issues. So far after camming my 2012 Silverado and deleting AFM and VVT and doing multiple customers engines exactly that way I haven't had any issues either. No broken bolts no stripped bolt holes.

  9. I love these videos and your approach to get answers, or a better understanding. Then I read comments and some of them "So Serious". You are not a metallurgist but I am SIR! Jeessh! I am a tech and honestly hate to toques to yield crap. They are taking maintenance out of the picture and anyones torque wrench. "Sir, it is the head of the bolt, if the head is flat! Well, no s#*%t captain obvious. I can't remember bolt a head on crooked nor resurfacing the bolt heads mating flange on the head. GM by the book wants a clean dry hole & bolt. They do not want moly or apple sauce just dry. If the clamping force is so effected by the head, one is aluminum and the other is secrete-sauce metallurgy, then place a washer loose under the head of a grade 8 bolt, make it long enough to to catch the last 8 ten-thousands of thread and get it over with. Torque to 22 lbs ft, then 90 plus 90. A good torque wrench tighten to ? Hell, I should ha e bought breaker bars off the SnapOn truck, they are cheaper. Beware, recalibrate by sending in? Someday they tell you its too old and no parts so will give you $50 off this $600 one.
    Look, iron block, aluminum head, there is movement and the bolts will loosen enough someday to have a head gasket failure. I worked on imports, at 30K miles, re-torque one at a time, loosen first, then torque in pattern. BAM! 300 miles later, no problem. Whats inside the aluminum block, don't know, never worked on one LS but imports used longer deeper bolts into aluminum with a steel bolt, no problems. The metal used here is chickens lips, hot sauce, steel w/ 0.2 % chinesium. Don't care. Once the bolt material is made, it's induction heated to form head, thread are cold rolled then treated with Benjamins (Bottom Right of the Element chart. Next to printed in India sticker. If they break in this valid test, buy the gaskets, get the bolts somewhere else. Torque in stages and be done…Who likes a torque angle meter? Coat hangers everywhere and sharpies are sold at the dollar store, next to adult crayons! "Someone Gots splaining to do" if they want to convince me to use torque to yield bolts. Considering these are assembled completely by a line of machines. Yep, worked with ACDelco for 7+ years and went twice a year for cross training. 55 or so, could look thru the glass as white suit dudes placed parts in trays, never touched by a human again, until ran on natural gas & oil with coolant, stamped, yellow inked, built sheet zip-tied on, then a machine placed it in a plastic box for shipping to the assembly plant.
    ASE Master Tech since 1978 – Retired without "PHD", no 60's tech school ever or pension. Just a lifetime of poking holes/springing leaks and leaking red dots, clean with solvent, wrap with electrical tape, keep going. "Give me a real G8 bolt, then pry it from my dead cold? Socket! Subscribed/Damm straight!

  10. What I think is that there’s eather oil in the hole cause ing hydro lock . I felt the same like the bolt was gonna snap so I took it out n put the bolt in another spot n it clicked . Shits crazy?????

  11. Just finished a lifter replacement with fel-pro head bolts. Torque to 22 ft-lbs first pass, 90 degrees second pass, and 70 degrees third pass per GM procedure. Flawless with no broken bolts. Only when you do something wrong you have problems. There is a reason for not using a torque value, an even better reason to make sure it’s done correctly. You are turning them too far bud.

  12. I just bought some fel pro head bolts in they broke in my heads round 60 ft pds I wont be using them again

  13. Lots of friction variables and variations in a click wrench from click to click…so the most accurate tork is 22 then 90 and 90 also 1/8 of a turn difference is very little difference in tork

  14. Do you run arp headbolts on your personal motors that you know you will at some time be removing. . I understand your concept of reusable stock head bolts ..

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