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BIG 3 Upgrade with 2 Gauge Welding Wire + TESTING!
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2 Gauge Welding Wire:
2 Gauge Lugs:
Hammer Crimper:
Klein CL800:

In this video I go over my recent big 3 upgrade using 2 gauge welding wire. This wire rocks in my opinion, looks better and costs less. I’ll also show you exactly how to test amperage from your alternator.

***This channel is for entertainment purposes only! Do not do what I do. Do not take my advice. I am not a professional. The methods I use may be completely wrong and/or dangerous. Please seek professional help with anything and everything and do your own due diligence (research). Working on cars is extremely dangerous. I am not responsible for any loss of life or limb or property. DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH. THIS CHANNEL IS FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY!***

FTC Disclaimer: I am an Amazon affiliate. As such, I earn a percentage of sales made through Amazon Affiliate links found in the description of my videos and on my website and other places. ..

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  1. Too bad this is 3yrs old. Well a message to the next person watching this that wants to big 3. Look on eBay for a Big 3 kit. You can get a 0ga CCA kit from SkyHigh or Knukonceptz with all the copper terminals and everything you'll need for $60-70

  2. When it come to my beloved Chevy C1500 454 stroker…….I don’t care wtf my wife says I make sure I have that kind of money .

  3. The electrons run on the outside of the copper wire not inside the copper wire I am not saying it is outside the insulation I am only talking about the metal itself.

  4. Get you a 200a circuit breaker, also instead of hooking all the ground wires to the battery, find a spot on the block or frame. Just giving my opinion from my experience, use it or don’t. I believe it would help though.

  5. Also you should be using a meter to measure voltage not the stock gauge. Gm truck gauges are known to not be very accurate in general.

  6. Oil on the frame on the ground connection? Wtf why? If anything you can put dialectic grease but oil no.

  7. Maxi fuses are not that reliable in general. Plus ad being cheap and buying the cheap maxi fuses you will have issues. But the big picture is 40 amps on a 10g at Best Buy looks like a 12 gauge wire and to me your over loading the fan circuit. Strand count wire is not going to fix your problem either. What matters is
    If your using true awg wire and pure copper.

  8. I run ad244 145 amp alt on mu 2000 blazer the ad244 has beater output at idle than cs130. Good job with the big 3.

  9. 105a to 140a lol that ain't crap. Most car audio guys run 280a-320a minimum range. You should also install more reserve (batteries) to help with voltage drop. Welding wire is cheap alternative. I would have spent more an got a high quality ofc wire made for these type of applications. 2 gauge welding wire isn't much of a upgrade over stock.

  10. You get a much larger alternator from Mechman alternators. I’m running a 390 amp in my Suburban. Looks like you have a lot of accessories to run. A larger agm battery from xs power would help as well.

  11. hi! can i use 200amp wires from a jumper cable/lead instead of a welding wire? i found them to be thick and high amperage. thanks in advance!

  12. I'm gonna do this with my 96 tahoe, what size fuse should I get if I'm getting a 124 amp alternator

  13. The big 4 upgrade makes a huge difference I have a pretty big sound system in my truck and have a 350 amp alternator. I was getting big voltage drops like you were talking about with a/c on and when bass hit headlights would dim out I didn't have money at the time for another battery and run of cable to the back but I did have some left over cable from my stereo install so I ran 0 gauge from +alt to + battery and grounded back case of alternator -battery then -battery to chassis and -battery to engine and -battery to body then connected engine to chassis and engine to body and if I forgot to mention chassis to body(these were all really short spans of cable). I had planned on adding second battery at some point and was just hoping that the wiring upgrade could do until I had the time and money for second battery. After I got done with the upgrade I can play stereo full out with bass flexing my doors and roof with a/c on and headlights don't dim at all while driving. My voltage runs at 14.4 and even in gear at idle with everything on and stereo up I don't drop below 13.2 I was completely amazed at the difference the upgrade had on my electrical system. I still plan on second battery at some point but it is no longer an issue. Btw…the upgrade even helped by getting rid of a small amount of noise I could hear between songs coming through speakers. No matter what you are adding to oem electrical system whether it be radio and amps, lighting, fans, winches or whatever the very first thing you should do is upgrade your grounds!

  14. I would keep an eye on the alternator alignment with the belt from where you forced a gap with the ground. Could cause issues.

  15. From a 12 year locomotive electrician. All current flows more efficiently with fine strand wire, AC Or DC.. that’s why locomotive traction motors can pull 750 amps with relatively small cables.. we use special high strand count wiring for all the high voltage.
    Your thinking is correct. I read about the outside flow and all that too.. I don’t know… doesn’t matter.. if nothing overheats, you are good to go.

  16. Get a better bigger battery with a higher CCA.. The battery is ment to suppliment the alternator. Also if your fuses are melting try a different brand, but i really hope that the wire for those fans is 10awg wire. 33 amps through anything less than 10awg is kinda pushing it, of course its also based on length.. but i wouldnt run 35-40 amps on 12awg wire.. Never trust what wiring comes with anything. I do it myself to make sure its done right.

  17. It is quite the opposite. AC current travels outside the wire, not DC. And this is happening because of the frequency of the AC. But even so, you need a pretty high frequency to feel the effect. So I think you had a poorly made connections, crimps, etc. Or you simply needed a thicker wire.

  18. Ideally the Neg should always be the same size as the Positive. Clean all connections and use Dielectric Grease on em.

  19. AGM battery, high output 250-300 amp alternator and no more problems. I think the big 3 is good but only for broken/corroded or very small gauge ancient stuff. Even this truck from the 90’s has sufficient battery cable size. No sense in over engineering for this application. But good video never the less

  20. Your going to blow that cheap alternator out by spinning it faster just go buy u a mechman and be done with it. Oh ya wires gauge is probably a bit to small yet as well just up grade 1/0 or 0/0

  21. My fuses are melting, so I'll name the brand. They must be made of inferior materials. No, you have resistance issues and those 'inferior' fuses are stopping your car catching fire. Check the temperature of your wires. Hot wires will quickly and easily show you where the problems are. I bet your hottest wire is where those fuses where melting. If your wiring is getting that hot to melt a fuse like that, it's not the fuse, it's something else.
    Usually corrosion in the wire or your asking the wire to do to much. Look at all my shiny new accessories, without addressing wiring upgrades. I guess you got the point after your continually melting fuses. Stopped watching at 2.40 and can't watch the rest. Your videos are all the same. You haven't a clue. No wonder you have a disclaimer at the beginning.

  22. I seen a video were the guy changed the braided ground with the 2 gauge wire. Nice video

  23. You’re not supposed To remove wires you’re only supposed to add wires so you remove that stock ground you should of left it think about what you said more lanes for cars if you have two wires lol

  24. I overkill the wires went for 450ah welding cable beafy stuff..We need the best contact and as sorter is possible to get best results..

  25. Question I purchased a 124 amp alternator issue is mounting bracket is too small made for original alternator. Suggestions

  26. Welding cable trump's Car audio wire in price, quality as well as meeting the actual AWG Standard that Car audio cable is hit and miss and miss and miss.

  27. Even though its an old video, everything is correct, you nailed it with the welding cable. 2nd you got it right with the crimping. Except you forgot 1 thing. If you know anything about copper is this. As soon as you mix copper and oxygen it starts to oxidize. So you need something called heat shrink. What i mean by that is as soon as you crimp the wire you heat shrink the cables. Welders never have this issue. Last but not least, the 3 big grounds is simple. 1st the ground has to be to the frame with a clean ground. Then you need to ground each and everything separate while keeping it clean. The more you ground to a single connection will be more heat ground. Which is why the original Orem wires always fail. I’ll follow up with my wire video just to show what I’m talking about.

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