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Blacksmithing for beginners – Forging and Heat Treating Carbon Steel – 2 | World’s Best Electric-Making Tools List

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Blacksmithing for beginners – Forging and Heat Treating Carbon Steel – 2 shows you how to forge tools from carbon steel ..

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  1. Hello, I want to ask how we can get Dark yellow colour on alloy steel. At which temperature and how

  2. Hello, thank you for the video. Im new to forging and have 2 questions. You said that hammering below full orange/ closer to critical temperature just refines the surface and can relieve the stress inside the material, improving the structure.
    Q1: below full orange/ close to critical temperature, must only small hammer blows be used and bot hard blows?
    Q2: I heard other youtube blacksmiths say that refining the grain structure with hammer blows only applies to old steels and not modern steels since any build up of stress in the steel because of hammering on it is removed automatically after the next heat up, since it realignes the grain structure.

    Could you clarify this for me please? Thank you.

    Greetings, Jochem

  3. I'm no expert by any means, but help me by explaining quenching in water. I have heard and had the understanding that quenching in water compromises the integrity of the metal. Is that not true then?

  4. I’m thinking about forging and making a video on forging to post YouTube and this video really did help me

  5. Magnetism is only an approximate gauge of critical temperatures but the two aren't linked. For hypoeutectoid steels below ~0.5 wt% C magnetism is lost above the lower critical temperature (Ac1) but under the upper critical (Ac3) where the material completely transforms to austenite. At around 0.5-0.55 wt% C the Curie temperature line intersects the upper critical line (Ac3) and the two will be roughly the same until you cross the eutectoid composition and into the hypereutectoid steels where the Curie line becomes less helpful. Luckily for blacksmiths and knife makers most steels hover between 0.5 – 0.9 wt% C so the effects of incomplete austenitization aren't that severe, but the magnet test becomes less useful the further to each side you go. The Curie point is also influenced by nickel and chromium which may stabilize or destabilize magnetism at temperatures different from the plain carbon steel.

  6. I've been doing bladesmithing for some time now and your explanation of critical temperature was very helpful in understanding why some of my builds didn't come out properly. I'll have to pick myself up a magnet like yours.

  7. First is quench in oil & than to water , but of is still not Harden so how to do harden the force?

  8. I burned an old couch and then took the now-softened springs from it. They are great. I didn't even have to label them because if their wavy shape. Something like 5160, who cares. It makes outstanding little engraving and chasing tools, and pin stock (it is 3/32" diameter stock). There is enough pin stock in a couch to make a hundred knives.
    Well, depending upon how you rivet things. Thanks for the video. I hope the Steel Nazis don't give you too much grief. When making a $2K sword, all the steel comes from Aldo (NJ Steel Baron) or Kelly Cupples. But, when making tools for my own shop, old files, old springs, etc. are PERFECT. Great video.

  9. Awesome video! I've been enjoying a lot of your videos as I get more into blacksmithing. Something I wanted to point out though: you can only find the critical temperature at a RISING or STABLE heat. If the temperature is falling, a piece of carbon steel will retain its non-magnetism until almost black heat. Also, quenching as soon as you hit critical will not give you the results you're looking for. One typically has to heat another 100°F or so to the austenitizing temperature before quenching. Some steels require soaking at a steady (ish) temperature for a couple minutes as well, so might as well experiment! You may know all this, but hope it helps anyone that doesn't!

  10. Questions from a Newbie..
    Great Videos BTW….
    I am having a little trouble grabbing the concept of the carbon steels..
    i think mainly because I may have picked up a reject chisel that might be already burned up, or it's a piece of hex bar that seems to be just a little harder than mild steel..
    But, it is confusing, because the tip seems to get hard, or harder, but, about 1.5 to 2.5 inches up from the working end seems to bend out of shape (like you were upsetting mild steel (chisel not heated in that area) when I am trying to punch through hot mild steel between 1/8" and 3/8" bosses, making some tongs..

    I have a couple of questions that I think will clear the concept up for me..
    Now that I am writing this and thinking about it, I really need to get some good steel and try this on something I know is good, not guessing. I think it is what is confusing me..

    Bringing the carbon steel up to critical to quench and test for hardness..
    Is it best to slowly bring it up to just past critical and then, quench it, or does it really matter if you throw it in a hot forge and pull it out when it hits the same temp past critical..

    What if a punch was quenched in Oil/water, after it reached Bright orange heat, rather than just above critical.
    I still have a punch that I did this with one time.. Is there any saving it?
    How particular is this?

    I have watched some forge welding videos, and it seems that one or two seconds makes a big difference..

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