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CAST BRASS MACHINIST HAMMERS – PART 1, THE CASTING | World’s Best Electric-Making Tools List

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CAST BRASS MACHINIST HAMMERS – PART 1, THE CASTING | Collection of the Most Modern Power Tools.

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How to cast a useful machinist hammer from scrap brass. In this video I demonstrate how I used 3D printed patterns with removable pieces to cast some personalised parts. I also show my method for making epoxy resin and sand cores using 3D printed core boxes with built in flexures which makes it easier to remove the cores. I will ‘fess up now…. mistakes were made but I make some attempt to show where I could have done better..

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  1. The resin that went off was probably a polyurethane casting resin, which in my experience usually have a shelf life of 6-12 months once opened. And hate any exposure to moisture. Epoxy resins usually last longer. Great video btw. Have been planning to do something similar. Love making my own tools. My favorite hammer Is one I turned down from a piece of 38mm brass hex stock. Cheers

  2. Nice work Mark! I don't have any casting facilities, but I like the size and agility and weight of those small ball pein hammers – so this gives me an idea to modify an existing ball pein hammer: Cut off half the cylindrical part, drill and tap the new face, loctite in a stud, and then cut off a few discs of round material (brass or aluminium or delrin or whatever) that can now screw on in place of the original steel face. When it gets dinged up, either reface it on the lathe, or make a new one!

  3. Love watching these brass hammers being made from scratch, dont let mistakes bother you in the least. You have the strength of character to own up to them and try again, and thats an admirable trait in anyone – were all human and imperfect by design. The best thing about mistakes is what we learn from them, and what we learn makes our end products better and better. This was how Rolls and Royce designed built and tested the earliest Rolls Royces, they built a car tested it until something broke then redesigned it and tested again repeating the process until the result was arguably the most reliable and high crafted car make in the world just after the turn of the century, youre in pretty good company.

  4. At my father's foundry, when they were casting brass for bearing shells and valve bodies, they used to blow oxygen gently through the molten metal with a lance before pouring, to get rid of dissolved hydrogen which can cause surface bubbles and even voids in the cast. This was 50 years ago and I don't know if that is still foundry practice. They did the same thing with silicon aluminium.

  5. Have a look at 26:35, you scrape all the slag off but left some on the lip of the crucible and it falls in your pouring basin.

  6. Why not use sodium silicate(also known as water glass, used as sealant for boilers), it cures with co2 very fast.

  7. Nice job Mark and leaving the mistakes in is a good learning lesson for the rest of us. Fwiw if you end up making anymore hammer heads? There should be at least one online scan around somewhere from the South Bend published projects book of there fully machined ball pein hammer. I know Randy Richards found one online some where when I mentioned it to him.In my opinion it has the very best proportions out of any design I've seen so far. Printing the pattern to there dimensions would be easy enough.

  8. G'Day Mark, love the vids. When I ran my foundry (hopefully I'll get it up and going on a much smaller scale) I made up my own 'K-Bond' which is very similar to Petrobond. Use it over and over and just need to add some Isopropyl alcohol or metho with some smokeless 2 stroke oil when re-mulling and its ready to go again. Gives beautiful definition (even thumb prints on the pattern) and is more like working bread dough than sand. Also worked very well on cast iron.

  9. G’day Presso. I would have kept the “R” makes for a talking point and an everlasting question “hey Presso when ya gonna fix it”

  10. "Ball peen hammer" (I assume you are an Aussie but nonetheless the hammer is used to 'peen' rivets. eeeeeee :-)

  11. Excellent video Mark !
    Thanks for being so candid with your mistakes and for showing the corrections you needed to make.
    You could have added an alignment spigot in behind the monogram so it can only go in one way – but that's easy for me to say after watching the video !

  12. It’s always best to get all the mistakes out of the way on the first one , it makes it so much easier to do the second one.😉😉 ! LOL ! Thanks for the video .

  13. Hi Mark. Great work and thanks for sharing your videos. Question… your "REMOVE BEFORE FLIGHT" tag doesn't happen to have a LIF127 Hawk aircraft on the reverse side does it? If so, we may have mutual friends in common. 👍

  14. Love your vids Prezza! The hammers look great, even straight out of the mould. Very well done, greetings from Southport UK

  15. Very good video as usual. The final hammers look terrific. Well done Mark. Glad you showed the end result up front.
    So many details to keep track of, and so easy to miss one like the letter orientation.

    Looking forward to the later episodes.

  16. can you upload the STL files to thingiverse? i'd like to give that a shot myself, that would make a nice winter project

  17. Hello Mark, great video. About 5 years ago I purchased some Petrobond Powder from Cast Metal Services. They're still operational it seems and in your part of the State. I use the powder as a substitute for bentonite clay in an oil sand recipe I got from the net. The original page is down but here is a link to a forum, the 7th comment down gives full details for the recipe. http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?t=41623

  18. Nice hammers Mark! I want one 😉. Looking forward to the rest of the series. I like Your approach to things and that you also shares Your mistakes with us. You always learn from mistakes, I know that the hard way 😒.
    Cheers from a cold Sweden!

  19. Nice video Mark. Your casting skills are really improving.
    Just a word on hammer handles (and any other wooden handles for that matter). Always try to buy or make handles where the plane of the grain is in the same longitudinal plane of the hammer head or tool.
    In this way the handles last so much longer and don't delaminate as they do when the gain is at right angles to the plane of the hammer head. It amazes me that so many handles are made the wrong way these days.

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