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Knife Making Tools Part 6: Anvils | The Best Power Tools

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Knife Making Tools Part 6: Anvils
Knife Making Tools Part 6: Anvils

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American swordsmith Walter Sorrells hosts this series of knife making tutorials devoted to outlining all the tools used in the knifemaker’s shop. This video focuses on Anvils, explaining what sizes and types are particularly useful for knife makers.

The series consists of over 25 videos aimed at beginning knife makers, giving you an overview of virtually all the major tools you’ll need when gearing up to make knives — from the simplest tools to the most complex.

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how much does an anvil weigh

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  1. I have that same identical anvil. I got mine for free and in mint condition like yours.

  2. I like how this guy looks like he's floating in the clouds when he's working,I've felt like that before but wish it was every time I'm working on a project!

  3. I have watched many of your videos and often wondered why you just talked and occasionally pretended to work for demonstration purposes. Well i now know why. I saw a episode of forged in fire that you were on. You did not do well at all.

  4. I used to use a couple of Harbor Freight cast steel Russian anvils, think they were 110 pounders. Not a great anvil, but better than cast iron and at the time they were around 100$ each, but that was like 15 years ago, they stopped importing them 10-12 years ago. I took a Portaband to one and cut the horn off and loved it for blade work, the other I left as is for normal smithing. Once I started getting more into decorative iron work and blacksmith I had the opportunity to work on a Refflinghaus anvil and fell in love. Took a little while to afford one of those though, and recently added a Refflinghaus hornless anvil. After working on both a hornless and a normal london or german pattern anvil, for blade work a hornless wins hands down. You can also make a post anvil for a couple hundred, but while there useful, I'm not a huge fan of them, but they are useful and a place to start.

  5. take ur rail road track anvil y'all and make the rail flat as can be with a disk grinder! there you go I just saved you $750

  6. That Mankel Anvil is a beauty! I have met Mr. Ken Mankel and had a chance to tour his shop a year ago. Real nice gentleman. Pity he is no longer in the anvil business anymore, as his products were solid pieces according to Postman's "Anvils in America". (Not to mention the inspiration for the writing of the book itself)

  7. @Walter Sorrells i know you said i should start by using a file to get the shape of the blade as a beginning knife maker, and I will, but looking forward a bit, is there any way i could use a rectangular steal beam as an anvil? Like, filling it up with concrete and passing another bar trough it to increase its hardness or something? Or maybe I should just wait until i have the money for a real anvil? Idk, what do you recommend?

  8. Hey Walter. Looking to buy an anvil but I'm concerned with Rockwell hardness. I've read that 52 is too soft. Any sage advice you could offer?

  9. Hi walter, I'm just now trying to get an anvil I don't have a lot of money to my name due to being a college student. Where did you find your anvil?

  10. This was awesome! Thanks for the insights. A friend and I are just starting out and are finding your videos invaluable! Please keep them coming!

  11. yeah i got a cast iron anvil just to get started and it broke when i was making my fist train spike knife

  12. The horn bit on an anvil is great if you also do jewelery type work, or want to add a curved part to your knife/sword, like a guard or something.

  13.      A 12" L x 3" W x 18" Tall piece of 4140 steel laid into a hardwood tree stump that you square off and then chisel out a hole, so that the anvil's long end sticks down into the hole about 10-12" will serve a bladesmith much better than a farrier's anvil. If you look at the narrow waist of your Mankel, you only have about 4"x 3" area of sold forging surface. The rest overhangs into space with no mass underneath it. 
         You can easily weld a sqare piece of tubing onto the side of this type of "Danvil", let's call it ,and use that as your hardy hole. I'd rather have a tooling hole held by my post vise, which can sit right near this kind of anvil. Just get a stout piece of metal tubing, like a piece of 1" x 1" by 4" L and try to get at least a 1/2" thick piece of tubing to serve, as your hardy hole, or weld up a tube using metal, as thick as you want it. 

    The Japanese seem to do pretty well with out this London pattern farrier's anvil. You can decide if you want to try to harden the 4140, but as long as you only forge hot steel (red or preferably orange steel) there isn't any need to harden the face of this kind of anvil, in my opinion

      But, as always an interesting video. 

  14. Yeah, it's water. It turns to steam and blows scale off the steel resulting in a smoother surface. Japanese smiths use the technique.

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